Embedded Bike Lights + ATTiny = More Flashiness

I have been slowly working towards a mobile bike light show. The most recent step in that project has been to create a small PCB that I can place inside the wheel with an MCU that will be able to control the flashing of the lights.

I have already done several prototypes of such a board. Here is video of the different modes I have programmed in. Sorry that LEDs dont glow very brightly. I was VERY conservative with the current limiting resistor because I didn't want to risk blowing any (they would be a pain to replace). The power supply is putting out around 200mA but it could be closer to 400mA.

A Bakfiets Design

Bakfiets bikes are really cool. They are also really expensive and rare here in Australia. An importer sells these bikes from between $3000 to over $4000 for a motorised version.

http://dutchcargobike.com.au/azor-bike-bakfiets-cargo-bike-classic/

Instructables have a few builds for a Bakfiets style bike

Based on what I have read on the internet, I made up these basic specs for my design:

• The bike needs to be electric - to cope with the large hills of Brisbane and increased weight.
• Disc braking will be required - I have read that caliper rim brakes do not have the stopping force required for these bikes when carrying a burden on a hill. 
• The rear wheel will be a 26'' Mountain Bike wheel - as these wheels are more robust and have provision for disc brakes.
• The front wheel will be a 20'' BMX Bike wheel - Need MTB hub with disc brake. 
• RHS steel box section for the base - I would like this to be a 'jig' for the rest of the bike. ie. the RHS will extend beyond its final position to help support the forming of the other components of the bike. Specifically, dummy hubs will be mounted to temporarly mount the chain stays and front forks will components are aligned and welded. The excess can then be cut off later.

Hand sketch to give some dimensions based mostly on my current bike to give a starting off point. Some notes about design constraints:

• Main RHS bottom tube and top tube are parallel to eachother and the ground (for ease of design)
• the angle to the horizon of the seat and steering tube is 75deg because this is a nice round number :D.
• the seat and steering tube are 500mm apart as this is roughly what I have now and thats comfortable.
• The box will need support underneathe to stabilise the load and stop the box from twisting loose.
• The steering tube will need a bash guard (10mm rod steel) to protect it.  

I drafted the bike in sketchup to get a more scale idea of what it might look like.

More work to be done!

3D Printable Compact Camera Mount for Bike (Moved)

I printed a camera mount for my bike so I can record my rides/ record confrontations with crazy taxi drivers.

It is available at thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:37328


This is a handlebar mount for a compact camera for a bicycle. It uses a 6 x 25mm bolt for the camera and a 3 x 30mm bolt and nut to clamp the handlebars. 

Video here:
youtube.com/watch?v=5LYhufnWy6E&feature=youtu.be

Instructions

Print it! (I reccomend using the raft, the latest model had some curvature on the bottom surface.)

buy:
- 6 x 25mm bolt
- 3 x 30m and nut
- rubber washer

- Fit the M3 nut into the hole on the end. I used a heat gun to soften the plastic and then jammed it in. This way it keeps in tightly.

- Thread the M6 nut throught the block. Place rubber pad on top (this helps to dampen the vibration)

- Thread your camera onto the screw. (Note: the first camera I used was very cheap and had plastic threads which shreaded instantly. ONLY USE CAMERAS WITH METALIC THREADS!!.

- *IMPORTANT: slid the hand strap over the handlebars before clipping on the camera (just in case.)

- Snap the mount on the handlebars. It should stay where it is without the tightening nut.

- Place screw in tightening nut.

Enjoy!